Sunday, November 12, 2006

Diner Review: Logan Tavern

Logan Tavern
Washington, DC
Sunday, November 12, 2006

This cozy old-fashioned bar in DC's hip Dupont Circle neighborhood has an atmosphere equally at home under the stars on a populous Saturday night peppered by pick-up lines as a rainy Sunday morning, welcoming the same crowds lovingly back to eat away a hangover. This morning, timing was key as we found our way to the bar; a table wait was at least 15 minutes, and the swelling masses streaming in behind us left no uncertainty that beggars can't be choosers.

The first telltale sign of brunch was a perfectly prepared pint of Bloody Mary resting on the bar, one that would have made Frank Sinatra proud. We sat on the stools, sated by fresh sourdough bread and coffee. Our server presented us with a substantial menu that included many delicious brunch and lunch items. Brunch won out in the end, and we settled on the bacon-and-swiss omelet, the pecan-caramel French toast, and the classic steak and eggs.

The high-ceilinged room easily handled the murmur of the tables, the full bar and the standing room foyer, owing to its sturdy 1930's speakeasy charm. The food quickly arrived, the speed of its preparation in no way hampering its quality. The omelet was full, with a great egg-to-filling ratio, the bacon speading generously to its edges. The French toast prompted the simple response: "Oh wow!" The steak arrived on time with the eggs, cooked to perfect tenderness and offered with steak sauce. Seasoned home fries in a medley of sauteed peppers and onions, and juicy grapefruits and oranges rounded out the dishes.

Bottomless coffee can make for great conversation, assisting to bring back even the most sluggish diner from the dead. The bartender kept it flowing, a rich blend that was a head above typical watered-down diner fare.

The meal ended nicely, not too long but just enough to stave away the cold, wet concrete morning with the hearty warmth of a familiar neighborhood hang-out. A classic brunch that one does not soon forget!

Visitors can find the Logan Tavern at 1423 P St., NW, Washington, DC 20005, or on the web at www.logantavern.com.